An Update on Tourmaline Sold at The Las Vegas JCK Show in 2024

Tourmaline was found in many 2024 Las Vegas gem show booths, with some selling unset gems while others offering beautiful ready-to-wear pieces. Several factors add to the popularity of tourmaline in the jewelry world. For designers and buyers alike, tourmaline gems check a lot of boxes.

First, it is a beautiful stone that comes in many exciting, saturated colors. Some special gems feature two or more hues in well-defined regions of the crystal body. Next, you can find gems at many different price points ranging from affordable, gently colored options to valuable vibrant varieties. While tourmaline crystals can be perfectly clear without visible inclusions, some individuals favor gems that have unique and attractive clarity characteristics. 

The consensus about the tourmaline market as a whole is that prices have gone up in the last year. While different varieties have grown more valuable at different speeds, dealers say that everything, from commercial-grade gems to the very best specimens are increasing in value. 

Suzy Landa who designs for her own line, said plainly, "prices for tourmaline are bananas!" She proposed that a contributing factor of this inflation is that the availability of gems has lessened as a result of the Covid pandemic. "Many tourmalines," she said, "come from Brazil. But the loss from Covid there was tremendous. Mining came to a screeching halt." 

Ms. Landa continued, saying that the mining industry has had a terrible time recovering due to new restrictive regulations that require expensive permits and licensing: "It was already an industry that under-paid, and locals just can't afford (to do business)." As a result, Ms. Landa estimates that Brazilian inventory has doubled in price in the last few years. 

That being said, Ms. Landa noted that the price increase can't be blamed on shortages from the Brazilian mines alone - "some people are blaming prices on low inventory, but is that true? We are seeing so many stones everywhere. Just look around this show". 

Another possible reason for the price hikes was proposed by Debora Lucki, a co-founder of Julls which is a Brazilian company that represents and promotes local jewelers on the world stage. Ms. Lucki was proud to say that they represent artists who source their tourmaline from the Brazilian Cruzeiro Mine which produces a wide variety of colors including blue, green, red, clear, and multi-colored. In addition to being very productive, Ms. Lucki explained that the Cruzeiro is transparent about its mining techniques. Gems are both ethically and responsibly sourced. "Prices are up for Cruzeiro tourmaline because of those good and honest mining practices." 

Regardless of questions surrounding the supply of tourmaline, there is no doubt about the demand for the stone. Designers love it for its versatility and wide range of per-carat values. Leah Jover, managing director of Lauren K, commented enthusiastically "we sell loads of tourmaline! It's one of our favorites to work with! Each piece is built around individual stones. Nothing is calibrated. We choose gems for their natural beauty. Sometimes that means gems with clarity features."

A green tourmaline with clarity features set in a pendant by Lauren K. Ms. Jover said, "if it were perfect, we wouldn't have chosen it!"

Discussions with dealers revealed sub-trends associated with specific tourmaline varieties. Here are the changes that they pointed out as being the most notable. 

Paraíba

Paraíba tourmaline is a variety first discovered in Paraíba, Brazil which exhibits a saturated green, blue, or violet color. While other sources have since been discovered, tourmaline with this coloring caused by copper impurities remains rare. It is also popular. Very popular. 

Ms. Landa said "the obsession with Paraíbas is driving the whole tourmaline market. People are listing their tourmaline as 'Paraíba' or 'close to Paraíba' as an excuse to charge higher prices." Jannis Porcher, a representative of HC Arnoldi, felt that it was so obvious that Paraíba would continue to be so pricy he skated over the issue, providing only the off-hand statement, "Paraíbas are always expensive. The rough is expensive."

Green and Blue

There are other green and blue colored tourmalines that are more mildly colored than Paraíbas and don't contain copper. These are not as vibrant or expensive, but they are also selling well. Lucas Martins, sales manager of JS Gems, said "blue and green tourmaline are classics" and will always have a place in the market. Thowfik Iqbal of Madagas Gem estimated that such gems have increased in value about 5-10% over the last year. 

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Red and Pink

While green and blue tourmaline is coasting right now, red and pink gems - sometimes called "rubellites" - are flying off shelves. Mr. Martins said that his "red and pink inventory is on a hype right now! They are on fire!" Ms. Lucki fondly calls rubellites "extra tourmalines" and says that many of her customers are on the hunt for high-quality stones. Mr. Porcher also agreed and further stated that there may have been a slight increase in per-carat values in the last year.

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Multi-Colored Tourmaline

Of all the tourmaline varieties, the species that dealers are seeing the most dramatic change in is arguably the multi-colored stones. Mr. Martins and Mr. Iqbal both noted that strongly color-zoned tourmalines are experiencing a surge in popularity. Each independently observed that the classic "watermelon tourmaline" which is characterized by a pink center surrounded by a green band, is very much in demand. 

Another color combination that has proven to have a wide appeal is pink paired with clear. Ms. Jover described how the market for multi-colored tourmaline has found itself in a self-feeding loop. As designers continue to use tourmalines, the public awareness of the gem grows. This leads to more special requests for the gem. This pattern, she says, shows no sign of slowing. Mr. Martins said that brands have enough confidence in the popularity of multi-colored tourmaline that they are betting on them and buying more.