Is Turquoise Expensive?

Turquoise is one of the world's most popular opaque gemstones. Used as ornamentation and a symbol of wealth for thousands of years by cultures on multiple continents, it is also one of the hardest gems to value. There are two imposing challenges when it comes to assigning a price to a particular turquoise gemstone: there is a huge range of appearances, and buyers from different geographic regions have strong personal opinions about what they consider the most desirable qualities to be. 

Turquoise is what those in the trade call a rock. This means that it is an aggregate stone with multiple microscopic mineralogical elements. The concentration of each of these minerals varies between deposits, which is why turquoise from one place may look very different then gems mined elsewhere. 

Due to the complexity of the turquoise market and the lack of a universal quality/valuation system, even experienced appraisers struggle with the gem. Here are the factors that jewelers, experienced buyers, and appraisers consider when evaluating turquoise.

Color is King

Evaluating opaque gemstones is a different process from what is done for transparent gems. Looking at turquoise, you don't need to consider clarity or sparkle pattern. Rather, you are evaluating primarily the face-up color expression. 

Body Color

The first aspect of color expression to consider is bodycolor. Turquoise bodycolor can be the bright blue that the name suggests, but it can also be green and have a significant contribution of yellow or gray. As turquoise has such a deep history around the world, the individual cultures tend to prefer their native stones as it is what their traditional jewelry employs. 

That being said, there is one bodycolor that consistently fetches the highest prices - a bright blue with an even coloration often called Persian Blue or Robin's Egg Blue. The term "Persian Blue" reflects the ancient Iranian source of these gems. This faultless and rare turquoise is always in demand and can be found in the highest tier of fine jewelry.

Turquoise from other deposits is often a blend of a few hues and not as bright. Egyptian turquoise, for example, can be a bluish or yellowish green, while the color of Mexican gems typically lacks yellow and, instead, is blue, green, or a combination thereof. 

Evenness of Color is Essential

Regardless of bodycolor, buyers tend to prefer gems whose color is evenly distributed. Any noticeable mottling of light or dark patches decreases value. 

Collectors Prize Fine Texture

As an aggregate material, the size of the individual crystals that make up a turquoise stone varies. Some gems are made of small and uniform crystals that are packed together tightly, which gives a smooth and homogenous texture that is considered preferable. Others are comprised of large and irregularly shaped components that don't fit together very well. These stones appear dull and are valued at a lower price point. 

The benefit of smooth texture goes beyond aesthetics. Gems made of smaller, packed crystals can achieve a superior polish and are less porous, making them more resilient overall. If the crystals are placed irregularly with larger openings between them, external contaminants can more easily penetrate the stone, which can result in discoloration over time, and they may be more likely to break apart. 

Matrixing Should Be Regularly Distributed

Turquoise forms when the right combination of minerals collects in the gaps and fissures present in the ground. Often, these openings are quite small and exist as a network of interconnected cavities. As a result, big pebbles of pure turquoise are exceedingly rare (which contributes to their value). Instead, turquoise gems usually include veins of the stone that they grew in. This is called "matrixing". 

Gems with well-balanced matrixing patterns are worth much more than stones that have big clumps of host rock, which are not evenly distributed. Stones with matrixing that is both delicate and regularly spaced are called "spiderweb turquoise" and are highly valued.

Large Stones are Rare and Highly Valued

Turquoise gems tend to be small and thin, often measuring on the scale of millimeters. As a result, turquoise jewelry often features delicate inlay work or cluster settings so that larger items can be made. 

There are two primary reasons that turquoise gems are petite: their size is confined by the dimensions of the gaps in the host rock, and their aggregate structure is brittle. Even if a large chunk is found, keeping it intact is a challenge. If you are shopping for raw turquoise gems, you will see that some gems have been reinforced with a flat backing. 

If you are lucky enough to find a hefty slab of turquoise with good matrixing that does not have protective additions, expect to pay a premium. 

Where In the World Are You?

A final factor that has a significant impact on the value of turquoise is where you are shopping. People from geographic regions that have native turquoise deposits and use the stone in their traditional jewelry designs will pay much more for turquoise than individuals from places that don't have exposure to the gem. 

One of the most stable turquoise markets in the world is the American Southwest. For many living there, turquoise jewelry is a necessary staple in personal collections. You can find experienced artisans selling expensive turquoise set in high-karat gold alongside other gems like diamonds, coral, sapphire, and opal. 

Alternatively, buyers who have not been exposed to turquoise may not view the stone as a precious gem at all. Travelling to other locations in the U.S., you might find inexpensive turquoise set in silver, if you find any at all. There is no demand so there is no supply.

Wax Impregnation Is Typical

Collectors of top-quality turquoise don't want their stones to have any treatments whatsoever, and the value of completely untouched turquoise is high. However, as turquoise is a porous rock with microscopic gaps between its mineral components, the outer surface of many gems is often treated with a clear wax of some kind to seal off any tiny cavities. This practice is often called "wax impregnation", and it keeps impurities out, helps the gem retain its original coloration, and can increase overall durability. 

Other Treatments Are Not So Benign

There are a number of treatments that can be performed to change the appearance of turquoise. Polymers can be used to impregnate turquoise, and there are dyes that can be applied. There is also a proprietary treatment called the Zackery method, which was popular in the 1980s. Generally, treatments like these devalue gems because buyers want to own strong natural gems that are unaltered by human interference.

Quality of Cut Heavily Influences Value

A great deal of turquoise jewelry features nuggets that have simply been polished and protected with a wax coating. Depending on the size and durability of individual stones, they may also be carved. You will find lots of basic cabochons and beads. Turquoise stones that have been elaborately carved are much more valuable because it means that the stone in question is structurally strong enough to be sculpted, and the artist doing the work is highly skilled.

Reconstituted Turquoise Has Lower Value - If You Can Detect It

Reconstituted turquoise is a controversial topic. It describes turquoise that has been pulverized and reformed. The advantage of such procedures is that an infinite number of identical turquoise gems with matching color and matrixing patterns can be created.

The disagreement is between the people who create reconstituted turquoise and some miners and collectors. The producers want to call their product natural because it contains some natural turquoise, while others are opposed to this because the natural structure, color, and matrixing - the most important value factors for the gem - are destroyed. 

Currently, reconstituted turquoise is used in lower-cost commercial-grade jewelry. The primary concern is that the product looks so realistic that even the people creating the reformed turquoise can't tell the difference between their gems and the natural counterparts. 

Fortunately, those who create high-value turquoise jewelry with expensive metals and other gemstones often source their gems from miners directly, so you don't have to worry that your six-figure squash blossom necklace is set with reconstituted turquoise.