Antique Engagement Rings

You can find many amazing antique engagement rings from a variety of time periods. Before you shop, learn more about these styles and how to identify them.

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Home Learning Center Jewelry and Lapidary Antique Jewelry and Jewelry HistoryAntique Engagement Rings

By Megan Coward, Graduate Jeweler Gemologist, GIA, Graduate Gemologist

You've decided modern engagement rings with glitzy bling aren't for you. They lack uniqueness. Instead, the allure of antique engagement rings has piqued your wandering interest. They have an unmistakable character and style about them that modern rings decidedly miss. However, before you purchase one, you need to know more about these one-of-a-kind, instant heirlooms.

Georgian Period - antique engagement rings — A classic example of a Georgian Period ring. The 21 rose-cut diamonds are set in silver with an 18k rose-colored gold shank. The intricacies of the hand-made repoussé metal work and its pristine condition will supersede the quality of the diamonds and set the price. (However, the fact that the diamonds aren't chipped or abraded is a plus). Photograph by Cole Bybee. Image courtesy of Lang Antique and Estate Jewelry.

Let's start with three basic questions:

What is an Antique?

This question has generated quite a bit of debate in the jewelry world. In the past, jewelry appraisers said a ring must be 100 years old to be labeled an antique. This year of demarcation has been relaxed in recent times. Now, appraisers declare a ring must be only 50 years old.

We'll compromise. In this article, we'll cover rings made before 1930, which marks the end of the Art Deco jewelry design period.

How Do You Know How Old a Ring Is?

Qualified appraisers and gemologists can assist with dating a ring. If you want to purchase an authentic ring from a design period, deal only with a reputable antique jewelry store. Be wary of rings marked as reproductions, modern rings made to resemble antiques. A reputable vintage ring dealer will guide you in the identifying the difference.

Below are some of the characteristics that can help identify a ring's age.

Motif

The first calling card of a ring's production date is its overall style, ornamentation, and symbolism. Graceful lines, bold patterns, and depicted scenes can help pinpoint age. Historical and cultural events can also drive motif. For example, the 1800s saw an influx of designs inspired by archeological finds from the opening of Egyptian and Etruscan tombs.

Gem Cutting Styles

Faceting styles and the shapes of cut diamonds and other gemstones in rings will help pinpoint their era. Watch for these important cutting styles when examining antique engagement rings.

Table Cut: a square shape with a large flat top and few facets. One of the earliest cuts, not commonly seen.
Rose Cut: a rounded shape with a flat bottom and a domed top and few facets. One of the earlier cuts, premiered in the 1500s, enjoyed a revival in rings made in the 1800s.
Step Cut: a square or rectangular shape with long facets. Used from the 1800s through modern times.
Old Mine Cut: a rounded square shape with decidedly more facets than the table and rose cuts. Rings dated from the 1800s through early 1900s will often feature gems with this style.
Old European Cut: a round faceted shape, a precursor to today's modern round brilliant cut. Clunkier than the modern round, you often find it in rings dated through the 1900s.

Popular Gemstones

Many varieties of gems have been available as ring stones for centuries. However, their popularity waxes and wanes based on color and fashion. For example, Queen Victoria liked blue. Thus, turquoise was en vogue during her reign. On the other hand, some gems appear to have unwavering interest. Rubies, sapphires, and emeralds enjoyed great popularity throughout the eras we'll cover.

Metal Use

The metals or combinations of metals used in jewelry fabrication can also help date the ring. For example, in the 1700s, jewelers sometimes used silver to set diamonds.

Mid-Victorian Ring with Etruscan motif — This bold Mid-Victorian ring features the coral, enameling, and Etruscan motifs commonly used during this period. Small, rose-cut diamonds in an 18k yellow gold mounting accent the coral. With no chips or breaks, the enameling adds value. The detailing of the Etruscan beading, using valuable 18k gold, is sublime. Photograph by Cole Bybee. Image courtesy of Lang Antique and Estate Jewelry.

How Do Modern and Antique Engagement Rings Differ?

While an antique ring can make a beautiful alternative to a modern ring, consider these three important differences between them.

Diamond Grading is a Relatively New Phenomenon

Today, the famous Four Cs of diamond grading constitutes a common diamond language between buyer and seller. However, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) established this standard in the 1950s. Diamonds in antique engagement rings created prior to that were evaluated differently. For example, in the 1700s, diamond rings only came out to play by candlelight. Yellower diamonds were common. The technology to cut diamonds to today's exacting proportions didn't exist. Thus, old rose cuts, flat on the bottom and domed on the top with few facets, seriously hampered diamond brilliance. In contrast, today's round brilliant cut has 58 facets, laser cut to specified proportions to unleash maximum brilliance.

No Gemological Lab Reports

Having gemological laboratory reports accompany all center diamonds in engagement rings is an even newer phenomenon. Most likely, you won't find reports extolling the color, clarity, carat, and cut grades of diamonds in an antique ring. Some antique rings will have a report, but only if the center diamond can be removed from the mounting without damaging the setting.

Love and Wear

Antique jewelry may show signs of being "loved." The owners of these pieces have probably handed them down through generations. They will most likely show some wear. However, this also aids in establishing the authenticity of the ring. Careful, though. Too much "love" can also devalue the ring.

Victorian ring with 5 sapphires — This Mid-Victorian ring features five cushion-cut sapphires, totaling 0.55 cts, ringed by 18 Old Mine-cut diamonds, totaling 0.55 cts, in an 18k yellow gold hand-engraved shank. The rich, velvety blue of the well-matched sapphires and the uniformity of the Old Mine cuts set the price. The hand-engraved shank helps as well. Photograph by Cole Bybee. Image courtesy of Lang Antique and Estate Jewelry.

Now, let's get an overview of the chief characteristics of some of the most well-known jewelry design periods. This can help you focus your search for the antique engagement rings perfect for you.

The Georgian Period (1700-1830)

During the Georgian Period, intricate metal work depicting natural themes came into fashion. This was called repoussé. In addition, the use of faceted gemstones became the new rage.